Vitamin E regenerates alongside vitamin C and roughly doubles its UV protection in the classic C+E+ferulic combo — but the popular claim that it fades surgical scars has real evidence against it.
Mulberry (Morus alba) extract inhibits tyrosinase and showed real melasma improvement in a small placebo-controlled trial — the evidence, concentration, and a common potency claim worth correcting.
Lactic acid is the gentlest common AHA and doubles as part of skin’s own natural moisturizer — the right concentration, who it suits, and an honest look at its pigmentation evidence.
Hydroquinone remains the benchmark ingredient for stubborn pigmentation and melasma, but it’s prescription-only in India since 2019 and carries real risks at high concentrations or long-term use.
Ferulic acid stabilizes vitamin C and roughly doubles its UV protection — effective at 0.5–1%, but best understood as a synergist rather than a standalone brightening treatment.
Phytic acid chelates copper and mildly exfoliates for a gentler brighten-and-support role — but most pigmentation evidence comes from combination formulas with tranexamic acid or glycolic acid, not phytic acid alone.
Thiamidol is Beiersdorf’s patented tyrosinase inhibitor, tested head-to-head against hydroquinone for melasma — genuinely promising results, though still mostly company-funded and exclusive to Eucerin and Nivea.
Glutathione’s oral and topical evidence for skin brightening is real but modest and reversible — IV glutathione drips are unapproved anywhere for this use, and India’s CDSCO has started cracking down on them.
4-Butylresorcinol inhibits tyrosinase more potently than hydroquinone or kojic acid in lab studies, with an Indian melasma trial at 0.3% showing a real, well-tolerated result over 8 weeks.
Tretinoin is the most-studied prescription retinoid available — genuinely effective for acne, photoaging, and pigmentation, but prescription-only in India with a real purging and irritation curve to plan for.