Key benefit
Fades pigmentation & dark spots via glabridin
Well–supported range
1–2.5% glabridin
Best for
Hyperpigmentation, melasma & sensitive skin
Licorice extract — known as mulethi in Hindi and cultivated extensively in India — has a long history in Ayurveda and traditional medicine, and modern dermatology has since confirmed real, meaningful brightening benefits, primarily through a compound called glabridin.
What licorice extract does for skin
- Fades pigmentation and dark spots — glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, helping disperse existing pigment and slow new formation
- Calms inflammation — has genuine anti-inflammatory action, including inhibiting UVB-induced pigmentation and reducing free radical damage
- Soothes redness and irritation — traditionally used to calm irritated skin, an effect modern research continues to support
An important myth worth correcting
You may have seen the claim that licorice extract is “16 times stronger than hydroquinone.” This comes from an in-vitro (isolated cell) study, not from how it performs when actually applied to real skin. Clinical human studies show licorice extract performing comparably to low-concentration (2%) hydroquinone — genuinely meaningful, but not the dramatic multiple often quoted in marketing. Worth knowing so you can set realistic expectations.
What percentage of licorice extract should you use
Formulations typically use licorice extract standardized to contain 0.1–5% glabridin by weight, with 1–2.5% considered a well-supported, effective range in research. Because glabridin naturally makes up only about 0.03% of raw licorice root, extracting meaningful amounts requires processing substantial quantities of the plant — which is part of why concentrated licorice/glabridin products tend to cost more.
| Glabridin content | What it means |
|---|---|
| 0.1–5% | Typical range that formulations are standardized to contain, by weight |
| 1–2.5% | Considered a well-supported, effective range in research |
Who should use licorice extract
Well suited for those dealing with hyperpigmentation, melasma, or post-inflammatory dark marks who want a gentler alternative to stronger brighteners like kojic acid or hydroquinone. Its calming properties also make it a reasonable choice for sensitive or reactive skin dealing with redness alongside pigmentation concerns.
What to pair licorice extract with
Licorice extract is generally well-tolerated and pairs easily with other brightening ingredients, often used together in combination formulas targeting pigmentation from multiple angles.
As with any active targeting pigmentation, daily sunscreen is essential — untreated sun exposure will work against any brightening ingredient’s progress.
Frequently asked questions
Is licorice extract the same as mulethi?
Yes — mulethi is the Hindi name for licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), which is cultivated extensively in India and has a long history of use in Ayurveda.
Is licorice extract really stronger than hydroquinone?
That specific claim comes from lab-based (in-vitro) research, not real-world skin studies. In actual clinical use, it performs comparably to low-concentration hydroquinone — a meaningful result, but not the dramatic figure often repeated in marketing.
Can licorice extract be used every day?
Yes, it’s generally considered gentle enough for daily use, though as with any brightening active, consistency over weeks matters more than frequency alone.
Does licorice extract help with rosacea or general redness?
Its anti-inflammatory properties make it a reasonable calming ingredient for redness-prone skin, though it isn’t a substitute for a rosacea-specific treatment plan from a dermatologist.